Big Hair, Don't Care...Social Impact of Big Hair

More hair, more problems...I thought I was experiencing this phenomenon first hand, but not nearly as much as my sister and fellow blogger Miss Cee C. Miss Cee C, pictured above with a 6 day braid-out, garners a lot of attention when she steps into a room. So much so that she is beginning to question whether or not her hair is too much for work. Don't worry. She has no plans of straightening it or cutting it, but she is considering wearing more protective styles, updo's and pin-up's so that the attention is less on her hair, and more on her as a person. 

I myself have been garnering more attention with my hair. Not nearly as much as my sister probably gets, but enough to wonder when I am justified in being annoyed. Here are some examples taken from my life experience and Miss Cee C's...

1. Hand in Hair Syndrome. By this I mean, other people's hands in your hair, sometimes without permission. My friends, associates, and even strangers have fondled, even grabbed my hair unexpectedly. My general rule of thumb is that I don't mind when I know the person, but when does it become too much.
2. Oh, The Things People Say. Unwanted commentary on your hair, and my personal favorite (not!), the assertions that someone likes your hair but could never be natural, for whatever reason. It is a choice, not a necessity, to chemically alter or straighten hair. I also have been told that my hair does not qualify as curly. Sorry, I don't go by nappy or kinky.
3. When Are You Going to Straighten Your Hair? Miss Cee C has been getting this question repeatedly from a particular person. I have been getting this question as well more frequently. I also hate when someone says, "You know you can straighten it without getting a relaxer?" As if I don't know. I know my options, and I choose not to straighten my hair. I do not go up to every relaxed individual and ask, "When are you going to Big Chop? When are you going to give up the creamy crack? When are you going to let your natural glory shine through?" I don't ask that because it is rude, the same way it is rude when people incessantly ask someone with natural hair when they are going to straighten it.
4. Is That Your Real Hair? I have not yet experienced this, but from what I hear, the longer and bigger a natural's hair is, the more likely people are to believe it is not their hair. On the one hand, I understand that there are a lot of weaves out there, but I have always found it a bit rude to out right ask someone you do not know if their hair is real, or assume that it isn't. I have even heard of people looking for the tracks or lace fronts. Again, this has never happened to me. As my hair reaches new heights and lengths, I hope it doesn't.

In spite of it all, sometimes I take a good look at my hair, and remember that it is all worth it.



My Hair Regimen and FAQs

Weekly Hair Regimen 

(starting with Friday which is Wash Day)

Friday (Wash Day)*

• Pre-Poo Treatment with Extra Virgin Coconut Oil
• Shampoo with Shea Moisture Raw Shea Butter Shampoo
• Rinse with Warm Water
• Oil Rinse with 50:50 Oil Mix (1 part Castor Oil to 1 part other Carrier Oil, such as olive, coconut, grapeseed, or sweet almond)
• Either Rinse out Oil Rinse with Warm Water or Apply Conditioner (in next step) on top of oil in the hair
• Condition with Giovanni Conditioner (alternating between Smooth as Silk, Tea Tree Triple Treat, and 50:50 Balanced)
• Final Rinse with Cool Water
• Blot Dry with Micro Fiber Material or Plain Old T-Shirt and Shake Head (gently, don't rattle the brain) to remove excess water
• Apply Leave-In Mixture (Leave In Conditioner such as Oyin Handmade Honey Hemp or Giovanni Direct Leave-In with a bit of olive oil added)
• GO!

Tuesday or Wednesday (ACV Rinse Day)
--This routine is pretty much the same as Friday, except instead of shampooing, I do an ACV rinse before oil rinsing.

• Thoroughly saturate hair with warm water
• Spritz hair with ACV mixture (1/3 apple cider vinegar to 2/3 water with several drops rosewood essential oil added to ward off the smell of the ACV)
• Rinse out ACV mix
• Oil Rinse
• Condition
• Apply Leave-In Mixture

Do you use sulfates or silicones? I don't use any sulfates. The only shampoos I use currently are Shea Moisture and Giovanni. I use the Giovanni far less than the Shea Moisture. The Shea Moisture Raw Shea Butter Moisture Retention Shampo (available at Target and Walgreens) is very gentle on my hair and safe for weekly use, in my opinion. Occasionally, I use silicones, through the use of Aussie Moist Conditioner or Suave Almond Shea Butter Conditoner (old formula). Because some of my products contain silicones, I occasionally use Giovanni shampoos, which contain the detergent coco-betaine, to remove silicone build-up from the hair.

When do you detangle? I hardly ever do. Instead, I avoid fairy knots with ACV rinses to keep the hair pH balanced and with oil rinses every week. I oil rinse twice a week, on Wash Day.

Do you deep condition? I deep condition about once a month or less with a coconut milk hair soak. Coconut milk is very protein rich; therefore, I avoid doing this too often as I don't want to risk protein overload, which will lead to brittle hair in need of moisture. When it comes to conditioners, I no longer deep condition, I just condition regularly, after oil rinsing. From my experience, however, the best deep conditioner I have ever used was the Shea Moisture Raw Shea Butter Deep Treatment Masque for moisture and the coconut milk hair soak for protein.

What is your hair type? By the numeric hair typing system, I consider my hair type 4a, maybe 4b. By terminology, I would describe my hair as coily, tightly curly, highly textured, or very curly. I do not like to use the terms nappy or kinky very much, especially nappy. My hair is also slightly varied in texture around my head. The top front is the most defined and thickest area; the front sides near the ears are very frizzy, not as thick, with little curl definition; the middle crown is very tightly curled and appears shorter; and the back middle is a looser curl pattern and appears longer. The actual strands of my hair are very thin, so thin that it is almost impossible for my hair to split. Instead my strands just break when damaged.

What do you use to detangle? My favorite tool for detangling is the Cricket Ultraclean Comb, which I purchased from CurlMart.com. I rarely detangle section by section, rather I remove shed hairs when pre-pooing, conditioning, or oil rinsing.

What are your favorite products? My favorite brands are Shea Moisture (especially the Raw Shea Butter line), Giovanni (specifically the conditioners and also the shampoos), and Oyin Handmade (specifically the Honey Hemp Conditioner, but also the Greg Juice).

What is your legnth goal? Right now my goal length is somewhere between chin length and shoulder length curly, meaning not stretched or styled. My favorite hairstyle currently is a wash and go, so that is why I prefer to measure the length of my hair while shrunken/curly. I have major shrinkage, but that is what makes my hair curly, so I don't mind.

If you have any more questions, feel free to ask me in the comments.

To Cut or Not to Cut? That Is the Question...

Source

I just don't know what I want to do with my hair sometimes. On the one hand, I am loving my growth process and the look of my curls at new lengths. On the other hand, I miss the days of having a TWA, when wash and go's were a breeze, product reached every part of my hair without much work on my part, and drying time was much shorter than what it is now. But with more length will come more versatility, more styling options, a better chance that two strand twists will actually look really nice on me, and above all else, more hair.

I have said before, and I will say again, mo' hair mo' problems, including people wanting to stick their hands in your hair. Right when I decide that I am going to let my hair grow to new lengths, I see a naturalista at the movies or on campus with a fierce short 'do that makes me miss my twa days. Then I see all the styles my sister Miss Cee C does and I think to myself, "When my hair gets longer, I can't wait to try that style."

In the end, I leave my hair alone and dare not step foot into a barber for fear that I will do something I might regret. Some days, I reconsider whether or not I will start locs soon. But when taking it one day at a time, I realize that it's nice to know that I can pull off almost any look, from short to long and everything in between, as long I have confidence. Also, I figure I am just growing discontented because my hair is in that in between phase length wise. It will grow more, and I will let it grow for some time without getting scissor happy. Once I reach my current length goal of chin to shoulder length (no stretching/completely shrunken), we'll see how I feel then.

Random Pic of Hair to Show Curl Definition and Hand in Hair Syndrome

Here is a random pic of my hair to showcase my curl definition. Last night, I oil rinsed and co-washed my hair with the Shea Moisture Restorative Conditioner. I used some Oyin Handmade Honey Hemp Conditioner as a leave-in. This morning, I applied coconut oil to my hair and scalp. My curls are poppin' like popcorn. That was lame, but hey, they are.

This is a view of the top of my head as I sit here in the computer lab. Interesting fact, my hair has been fondled none too gently over the last two days by two different people, both of whom I don't know well at all. I usually don't mind friends and close associates touching my hair, especially when they ask. I hate when anybody, especially strangers, rough up my hair. I know the curls are cute, but they are not immune from damage. In fact, I work very hard to not damage my hair with a particular routine. I am in the process of coming up with a one liner for the following situations: When someone, i.e. a stranger, asks to touch my hair and I want to say no. When someone starts touching my hair without my permission.



Look What I Got...Yet Another Nutrition Book

Just because someone is vegetarian, doesn't mean their healthy. I know this fact. Since becoming vegetarian in the fall of 2007, I lived this reality myself. A diet dependent on processed foods, junk food, and other nutritionally inadequate foods has sometimes left me feeling undernourished and daunted. My resolution is to stop making excuses, stop trying, and just do it. I very much plan on continuing a vegetarian/vegan lifestyle, but now with nutritional literacy as my motivator. One of my most recent purchases is the Kindle eBook version of Eat to Live by Dr. Joel Fuhrman.

In the book, Dr. Fuhrman sets a basic formula for health: H = N/C. H stands for health, N stands for nutrients, and C stands for calories. The healthfulness of a food, by Dr. Fuhrman's standards, is determined by the ratio of nutrients in the food to the calories in the food. As we should all know, the Standard American Diet (SAD) consists of many foods with a very low ratio of nutrients to calories, including junk food, fast food, and prepackaged food. This also includes refined grains, such as white flour, which has been stripped of all its nutritional value in the refining process.

My favorite quote so far in the book is the following:

"When people tell me that they will give it [a healthier, plant-based diet] a try, I say don't bother, you have already decided to fail. It takes more than a try to quit addictions; it takes a commitment. A commitment is a promise you stick with, no matter what." -- Joel Fuhrman, M.D.

I am in the point where I am tired of trying to do the best I can; I am just ready to do my best. I am ready to make a commitment, in spite of how good something tastes (this includes my vegan junk food cravings), in spite of what others may think or say. Also, if you are not vegetarian, you can still benefit from this book. Dr. Fuhrman does not ban any food, just suggests you limit the intake significantly. As fair warning to you omnivores, by limiting significantly, I mean red meat eaten perhaps once a month or not at all. Here is a link to Dr. Fuhrman's food guide.

Conditioner Superlatives...Best Rinse Out Conditioner Used As a Leave-In

Every now and then, you have to take a product's instructions and ignore them, enabling a product to do double duty, or even triple or quadruple duty. One of the more popular ways to have a double duty product is to use a rinse out conditioner as a leave-in. This technique is very popular in the natural hair world, especially with Teri LaFlesh. Honestly, it was quite some time before I did this technique myself. I finally decided to experiment with a few rinse out conditioners as leave-ins to see how I liked them. In essence, the rinse out conditioner that performed best as a leave-in was none other than...Yes to Cucumbers Conditioner.

I love the smell. I love the ingredients*. I love the price, especially for the amount of product I get. I love that it is available at the local Target. The only thing I don't love is how cumbersome it becomes to use the bottle in the shower. The bottle is big and not shaped with easy handling in mind. I used to scoff at Little Golden Lamb's rants about a bottle's shape and dispense method. Now, I see that she has a point. If YTC came in a pump bottle, life would be almost perfect. Alas, it doesn't, but I still love to use this rinse out conditioner as a leave-in.

The ingredients are golden. Not just what is in it, but what is not in it as well. For a rinse out conditioner to be used as a leave in, I wanted it to be cone-free and protein-free. Cone-free would ensure a minimal chance of build-up. Protein-free would ensure that I don't suffer from dry, protein-sensitized hair that thirsts for moisture. The all natural ingredients of YTC also makes me smile, and the fact that it works great, too.My favorite method is mixing it with a little olive oil before applying to damp hair. It is a curl-popper, extraordinarily so. I have also mixed this conditioner with EVOO and honey to be used as a deep conditioner.

Honorable Mention: Giovanni Tea Tree Triple Treat Conditioner came in a close, close second. In fact, I used it as a leave-in just today. The smell is nice and fresh, the way it makes my hair feel is great, the ingredients are superb (cone-free), and the price is alright. Not as cheap as the YTC for how much you get, but it's not what I consider expensive at all. Price is the main reason that YTC won over the Giovanni TTTT.

Words of Wisdom from the Father of Western Medicine

I have read many books on vegetarianism, veganism, and general wellness. Many agree that the Western diet is very unhealthy and disease-causing. The primary proof in the pudding is that non-Western countries that adopt this diet and lifestyle usually reap the ill benefits immediately. Also, when people immigrate to the United States and start to consume a Standard American Diet (SAD), they are also immediately plagued with bad health and disease. Many also agree that Western medicine does not stress enough the importance of what we eat on how we feel. In actuality, if we return to the roots of Western medicine, to the man who is considered the father of Western Medicine (the pledge that all practicing doctors must take was named for him), his advice might prove that there has been a negative shift from the thoughts of the original fathers, and mothers, or health and wellness.

Let food be thy medicine and medicine be thy food.

--Hippocrates

Hippocrates, along with Plutarch and Pythagoras, are all ancient Greeks who practiced a vegetarian lifestyle. Food for thought...

Coconut Milk: A Final Review and A Word of Caution (A Long Post)

I wont keep you waiting. In essence, I love this product. It is all natural, cheap, easily available at the grocery store, cheap, a great conditioner, cheap, and all natural. I know I listed some pros more than once, but that is because my favorite features of this products are that it is cheap (economical) and all natural. And it works! My main reason for using coconut milk was for strength, and it delivered.



I had decided to do more protein based treatments because my hair was craving some strength. I even found a conditioner that strengthened with protein, but upon reading the ingredients, decided against using oyster shells in my hair. Furthermore, name brand protein treatments are usually expensive. I, therefore, looked into using homemade (read: edible, all natural, and cheap) products for protein. Egg was not an option for me. Also, if using egg, make sure to not rinse hair with warm water or you could end up with scrambled egg in your hair. I didn't even want to go there. I would forget and rinse with warm water and make a disaster. Also, I am trying to use far less animal products in all forms in my quest to be a vegan, another reason why egg was not an option. Then there was avocado. I used avocado mixed with coconut milk plus a little bit of olive oil and honey. The results were stronger hair, but also avocado pieces that were in my hair for a week. I didn't want to have to strain the avocado, so I decided to chunk that idea. Finally, I used coconut milk mixed with various conditioners, but felt the need to try the coconut milk by itself to see how it performed on its own.

Well, yesterday, after declaring Friday my new wash day, I shampooed with Giovanni 50:50 Shampoo, buffered with Suave Naturals Tropical Coconut Conditioner, forgot to oil rinse, then did my Coconut Milk Hair Soak. I applied the milk over the sink to prevent making a mess on the floor. I used the can generously to ensure every strand was covered. I hurried to cover my hair with a plastic cap and towel to prevent coconut milk from running down my face. I sat with the milk in my hair for about an hour, then rinsed. I immediately noticed stronger hair that did not feel as soft as usual. I felt the need, of course, to apply a moisturizing conditioner. I applied Giovanni Smooth as Silk Deeper Moisture Conditioner as a leave-in with olive oil. As soon as I did, I remembered that Giovanni SAS has vegetable protein in it, but did not feel like rinsing it out, just yet.

The next morning, due to fear of having protein overload, I rinsed my hair with warm water, remembered to oil rinse, then applied Aussie Moist Conditioner and let it sit for about 5 minutes. I then rinsed out the Aussie Moist (a protein free conditioner), and generously applied some Giovanni Direct Leave-In (another protein free conditioner). I twisted my hair for my pulled out 'fro look (my new go-to style) and was amazed at how little my hair broke off. I used to loathe wet detangling/combing. Now I think my extreme breakage was due to two reasons: (1) I may not have been using enough of and/or the right kind of conditioner. The Giovanni Direct Leave-In applied generously worked like a charm. (2) My hair was much stronger from the protein in the coconut milk, making it less likely to break. Also, the oil rinse may have had a positive effect.

All that said, the word of caution for coconut milk is that it is protein rich, so be careful of how often you use it. I don't plan on doing another coconut milk hair soak for at least another month, maybe longer. My plan is to pay attention to how my hair feels while wet. When it doesn't feel as strong or seems too soft, I will break out another can of coconut milk for a strengthening treatment.

Final Review:

Pros:
dirt cheap
available at the grocery store
all natural
strengthening
easy to rinse out
doesn't leave residue
vegan

Cons:
smells like baby formula
runny
becomes solid at cold temperatures (heat up to remove solids)
may lead to protein overload if not used with precaution

If you are protein sensitive, do not use this product. If your hair is a bit weak, coconut milk might be the thing for you

Warm Weather Hair Regimen Changes

First of all, allow me to inform you that the most recent hair regimen update was changed perhaps as soon as I posted it. I now shampoo my hair once a week with Shea Moisture Raw Shea Butter Moisture Retention Shampoo and once a month with Giovanni TTTT or 50:50 Shampoo. I am also conducting an experiment to see if deep conditioning is necessary. I have decided to stick to just conditioning my hair once a week. I will, however, continue to do my coconut milk hair soaks at least once a month, which I think may count as a deep conditioner, but then I don't really apply heat. I do wear a plastic cap with a towel, but more so to prevent the coconut milk from dripping all over my hair. With all that said, here are the other changes I will be implementing now that I feel we have officially moved into warm weather season:

1. Wash Day moved from Sunday Evening to Friday Afternoon: After touring with the Jazz Ensemble for about a week and a half, my hair regimen was thrown off base for a while. It made me decide to change my wash day from Sunday to Friday afternoons. I just think getting it done as soon as the weekend approaches will make me less likely to dread the Sunday evening. I don't really dread it, but it did seem to come quickly, right when I was so busy and behind in my school work. 
2. My New Go To Hair Style: Wash, Stretch, and Go: I love my wash and go's, but the tangles, oh the tangles. Stretching my hair greatly decreases the tangles and gives for a bigger afro. I have decided to make this stretched out afro my new go-to style. The knots were getting to the point of ridiculous. They weren't even fairy knots, but tangles on the ends of my hair that had to be pulled off. I will continue to rock the wash and go every now and then. I still don't run a pick through my hair from root to tip. I continue to simply pull out my fro with my fingers and lift the roots with my pick each morning. 
3. More Likely to Wash My Hair in the AM: Now that I don't have to worry about catching pneumonia due to cold bitter winds, I am more likely to wash my hair in the morning, especially a co-wash. My hair loves to be freshly washed, which were the days when my wash and go looked most fierce. 

I am on my last can of coconut milk, and am in desperate need of a wholesale supplier that will provide bigger cans for a cheaper price. Also, I am sure to buy the liter size of Aussie Moist next time I am in the store, after going through the current bottle I have. Next wash day, the plans are as follows: 

• Shampoo with Giovanni TTTT or 50:50
• Oil Rinse with castor: coconut: olive mix (2:1:1 ratio)
• Coconut Milk Hair Soak
• Condition with Aussie Moist 

The One Lovely Blog Award



This is a recent, to my knowledge, phenomenon in the natural hair blogosphere. You are given this award from a fellow natural blogger. I received this award from Miss Cee C of Naturally Elegant and Precious H of Precious Curls. Thanks ladies! I happily accept this award.

The Rules of This Award:

• Accept the award and in your post provide the name and link of the person who gave it to you. (see above)
• Tell seven facts about yourself we do not know.
• Give the award to fifteen other lovely blogs that you have discovered.
• Remember to contact the bloggers to let them know they have been chosen for this award.

Seven Facts about Myself You Do Not Know

1. I am considering legally changing my middle name.
2. I will be applying to Yale by the end of this calendar year. Wish me luck!
3. Another ambition is to start a food blog that focuses on vegan, raw, and macrobiotic food.
4. I wish to learn to play an instrument very soon. My top choices are the piano, clarinet, or guitar.
5. I recently returned from touring with a Jazz Ensemble during Spring Break, which is why I have had a recent hiatus from blogging. I'm back!
6. I love to sing and my singing role model, at least in the genre of jazz, is Ella Fitzgerald.
7. I plan on making some serious changes in my life soon, mainly starting to do all those things I have been meaning to do for a long time, including start yoga and learn a fourth language.

Fifteen Other Lovely Blogs I Would Love to Give this Award to:
In random order...

1. College Curlies - Her hair is gorgeous, and I love that she has a college student's budget in mind when she reviews products. Very helpful for us frugal naturalistas.
2. Precious Curls - A recent find, I initially fell in love with her buttons, one of which is featured to the right of this post. Her blog has great material as well, and is laid out beautifully.
3. Naturally Elegant - Not just because she's my sister, but also because she has gorgeous hair that she takes great care of, as well as styles very nicely. She is living proof that there is versatility in natural hair, without having to straighten it.
4. Curly Nikki - The go-to blog for natural hair information. Love Nik, love her blog. One of my favorite features is her links to very helpful Naturally Curly articles. If you have never visited NC or CN, you're missing out.
5. Happy Girl Hair - An adoptive parent of Ethiopian twins, her patience and creativity with her daughters' hair is inspiring. Also, I often find children's hair styles inspirational for me even as an adult.
6. Black Girl Long Hair - I love that BGLH features thought provoking material about the social impact of natural hair. This blog was one of my first finds in the natural hair blogosphere, and I am a faithful follower.
7. Le Coil (Tumblr) - These pictures of natural hair inspire me to stick it out and remind me that beautiful women, and men, all over the world are embracing their natural texture and looking fierce the whole time.
8. Rockin' It Napptural - A recent find, this blog is information dense and features much information about natural hair care.
9. Naturally Beautiful Hair - Her locs make me want to grow mine again, eventually. Her blog features information about all types of hair, including loc'd and loose.
10. The Natural Haven - Her scientific, fact-based research distinguish many myths from facts in the natural hair world. Great information to know, and I love her way of breaking it down so that we non-scientific minded people, like myself, can understand.
11. The Mop Top Maven - Not only her hair, but skin care as well inspires me to keep up with a top notch regimen. She is also one heck of a mixstress. Pray for her as she is home recovering from a recent hospital stay.
12. Dat Funky Fro - A recent find, she awarded my sister the One Lovely Blog Award. Her blog recently featured a great post series about hair breakage prevention.
13. Naturally Obsessed - Her hair is gorgeous, her product reviews are helpful, and her blog is bomb.
14. Teri LaFlesh (Tightly Curly) - If only for the ingredients dictionary alone, I had to feature TF's website, which features a blog, for how informative she is when discussing ingredients.
15. Naturally Leslie - Congrats to her on her recent baby boy. NL inspires me with her fierce protective styling and thought provoking blog posts.

Check Out My New Button...(To The Right)

I recently saw a commentor who had a blog of her own, so I decided to check it out. I love finding new blogs about natural hair. Not only does the blog look promising (I haven't thoroughly perused yet), but she has these great button with the tagline "I love my precious curls." That statement couldn't be any truer for me. I definitely have precious curls, very fine and fragile, and I love them. It is a deep infatuation. I decided to add her button to my blog, and I love that one of the choices featured a cartoon that looked like me. She even offers to make custom buttons if you contact her. Her blog can be found HERE. Above is the button that most reminded me of Miss Cee C, naturally glamorous. Miss Cee C, you should add this button to your blog.

As My Hair Grows...

...so does my frustration. Another Big Chop perhaps? No, not anytime soon at least. I just wanted to share some observations I have made since my hair has grown.



1. It takes much longer to ensure my hair is fully saturated and wet when co-washing and shampooing. This used to take two seconds with only a centimeter of hair, now it takes some work. One of the reasons I stopped co-washing as much. I used to find any excuse to wet my hair. Now it looks like I will wetting my hair only twice a week. (One shampoo, one co-wash). I have also resorted to shampooing my hair in sections, something I never thought I would do. It is a necessity now that I section my hair down the middle to get to my scalp on the crown of my head.
2. People keep asking me when I am going to straigten, if I am going to straighten it. I simply reply no. For a deeper explanation, click HERE. I also am more prone to get this question if I play in my hair, pulling out strands and twirling them around my finger. When people realize how much my hair stretches, how long it actually is, they get really excited and comment that they would love to see me with straight hair. Keep on wanting, but don't hold your breath.
3. I am really loving my hair growth. I think my progress has been good. Comparison pics coming eventually, won't promise soon. Just know that my naturalversary is coming up. In the meantime, I decided to post a picture of what length I am going for before I consider trimming my hair. The picture above is a hair length chart, pretty cool. My aim is shoulder length curly and unstretched. Who knows how long that would be stretched or even wet, but that is my goal.

Until next time...

Product Wars: Olive Oil versus Coconut Oil

Ahhh. It seems I  have talked about this before, but some subjects just never get old for me. At the risk of sounding redundant, I will be discussing it even more, my beloved olive and coconut oils. When it comes to olive oil and coconut oil, they are both purported to penetrate the hair shaft. They are both high in other nutrients and both can be used in cooking. They are both best used in their extra virgin form, and preferably organic. But when it comes down to the practicality of these two oils, which I alternate between, there will be for me a perpetual product war with the two. Allow me to break, break, break it down.

1. Coconut oil and olive oil penetrate the hair shaft. This claim is a basic fact, but goes a bit deeper. Coconut oil has actually been seen inside the hair shaft, meaning it is the more deeply penetrating of the two. Olive oil penetrates the hair shaft, just not as well as coconut oil. Avocado oil also penetrates the hair shaft, but I have no experience using that particular oil. The deeper penetration of coconut oil also makes it the best pre-shampoo treatment of the two. It actually protects the hair shaft more from losing protein, which is almost inevitable to a certain point when wetting your hair. 
2. The smell, oh the smell, is wonderful/horrible. The smell of what, coconut oil or olive oil? Take your pick. Personally, I prefer the smell of coconut oil, but olive oil doesn't smell bad to me at all, which is why using it from time to time is no big deal for me. My friend Dee has a stronger dislike for the smell of olive oil and prefers coconut, while my sister Miss Cee C loves the smell of olive oil. As you can see, our personal preferences range from like to indifference to dislike. You will have to decide for yourself, but it does seem to me that most people prefer coconut oil over olive oil.
3. Where would I be able to purchase olive oil or coconut oil? I've said it before: Olive oil is much easier to find, in it's extra virgin state, than coconut oil. Coconut oil is not necessarily hard to find, but olive is guaranteed to be found in your local grocery store, whereas coconut oil has a better chance of being in your health food store. I will state here and now, with its many benefits and more pleasant smell (IMO), coconut oil is my preferred oil of choice. But before I make that claim, here are a few considerations.
4. Coconut oil - it's not all sugar and spice and everything nice. There are a few things to take into consideration with coconut oil. For one, it solidifies in cold temperatures, making for crunchy hair in cold weather months. Now that Georgia is warming up better, I have set the olive oil aside and been using coconut oil more. But I am going on tour with a jazz group, and will be using olive oil more, which will agree better with the cold weather areas we visit. Another thing about my belove CO; some people may not be able to use it due to allergies. If you are allergic to coconuts, do not use coconut oil, look to olive oil instead. If you do not like the smell of olive oil, consider using a few drops of an essential oil or  fragrance oil. Also, because of coconut oil's ability to protect the protein in your hair, it may actually be a bad thing for protein sensitive hair. I myself am not protein sensitive; therefore, i heart coconut oil. 

In essence and in terms of practicality, olive oil seems to be the wiser choice. It won't solidify in cold weather and is more readily available at local grocery stores in it's extra virgin state. My sister and I have even said the large industrial size containers and contemplated buying it for our hair and skin. Oh yeah, olive oil is great for the skin. However, in terms of function, coconut oil has more penetrating power, has a better smell in most people's opinions, and makes a great pre-shampoo treatment. Don't forget, however, to try a bit of each if you never have to see which works better on your hair. You never know what works best until you try it. Are there any preferences you have? 

Spring 2011: Hair Care Regimen



Product Rotation:

• Shampoos: Shea Moisture Raw Shea Butter Moisture Retention, Giovanni Tea Tree Triple Treat, Giovanni 50:50 Balanced Moisturizing-Clarifying
• Co-Washing Conditioners: Giovanni Tea Tree Triple Treat Conditioner, Yes to Cucumbers Conditioner, Suave Naturals Tropical Coconut Conditioner, Alberto VO5 Free Me Freesia Conditioner
• Deep Conditioners: Shea Moisture Raw Shea Butter Deep Treatment Masque, Coconut Milk Hair Soak, Rinse Conditioner + Raw Honey + Olive Oil
• Leave-In Conditoners: Oyin Handmade Honey Hemp Conditioner, Shea Moisture Restorative Conditioner, Giovanni Weightless Moisture Direct-Leave-In Conditioner
• Moisturizers: Oyin Handmade Greg Juice, Homemade Moisturizing Spritz
• Sealants: Coconut Oil, Oyin Handmade Burnt Sugar Pomade, Olive Oil

What Exactly Am I Doing to My Hair?

1. Cleanse (weekly) every Saturday or Sunday. I use Shea Moisture every week and Giovanni (usually the TTTT) once a month, specifically the first weekend of the month. The Giovanni clarifies while the Shea Moisture cleanses without stripping the hair. When I use the Giovanni, I buffer with Suave NTC Conditioner. I don't feel the need to buffer when using Shea Moisture.
2. Deep Treatment (weekly) alternating between Shea Moisture Deep Treatment Masque (for moisture) and a Coconut Milk Hair Soak (for protein). I may also use a regular rinse out conditioner with honey and olive oil added.
3. Conditioning/Co-Washing (at least once a week and as desired) with either my Giovanni TTTT (my fav) or Yes to Cucumbers Conditioner. Occasionally, I use Suave or VO5
4. Oil Rinse (before every co-wash and after every shampoo) using castor oil mixed with grape seed or sweet almond oil (50:50). I let the oil rinse sit for 2 to 3 minutes before rinsing out.
5. Moisturize and Seal every single day. I have been using my own Homemade Spritz (recipe coming soon) lately, but I look to be buying some more OH Greg Juice eventually.

Getting Back to Our Natural Hair Roots

When caring for trees and other plants, the part that is most important as far as nourishment and growth is the roots themselves. Trees don't grow from the leaves and branches up, they grow from the ground up, from the roots. When I say it is time to get back to our natural hair roots, I am speaking very literally here.



Take care of your scalp. That is the essence of hair growth. Hair will not grow most effectively from the scalp if the pores are clogged, dirty, or overly dry. Once your hair has grown, then you can be sure to keep that hair by taking care of your strands, especially the ends, and decrease the chance of breakage. How do we ensure maximum growth via scalp nourishment? Here are some suggestions.

1. Keep your scalp clean. Regular cleansing is imperative. I myself have found a shampoo so non-stripping of the natural oils of my hair that I use it every week to ensure a healthy scalp. While shampooing, focus on the scalp and massage the lather into your scalp with the pads of your fingers. Using fingernails to scrub the scalp can lead to damaging your hair's roots.
2. Keep your scalp moisturized. If, like me, you suffer from a dry itchy scalp, look into using either coconut oil or castor oil to ensure moisture levels are good. Don't use too much, or you may actually lead to a dirty scalp. If you're not sure about oiling your scalp (I'm not talking Blue Magic here) check out this article by Naturally Curly.
3. Consider scalp massages. This can be done while oiling the scalp. It is a great way to remove dead skin cells and open up your scalp's pores. As with shampooing, massage scalp with the pads of your finger, never your nails. I recommend castor oil or coconut oil for scalp massage. You can even mix them both to maximum benefits. Check out this article about scalp massages.

Remember, nourish your roots, and your hair will thank you for it.

Conditioner Superlatives...Best Conditioner for Shaving

Allow me to let you in on a little secret. Conditioner, as great as it is for your hair in terms of both conditioning and gently cleansing, can also be used for shaving unwanted hair on the body. That's right, shaving. I had known this for quite some time before I actually gave it a try. I left my beloved Schick blade at my sister's house and was fresh out of shaving cream when I remembered...I have tons of conditioner, which can be used for shaving. After some experimentation, the best conditioner for shaving the body (i.e. legs and underarms) is [insert drum roll]...Alberto VO5 (any flavor).



Truth be told, I only tried two types of conditioner for shaving. Guess which ones? That's right, the cheapie brands. I'd be darned if I used some Oyin Handmade conditioner for shaving my legs. I chose the Alberto VO5 because the watery consistency is just what I like in shaving. Shaving with conditioner has made me realize how annoying all that shaving gel foam is. I am positive that it took half the time to shave using a watery conditioner like VO5. Alberto VO5 lays on smoothly and allows for minimal mess shaving. I tried Suave Naturals Tropical Coconut for shaving, but didn't like it much at all. Why not? I don't know, just didn't like it. I only tried it to have something to compare the VO5 to.

Another criteria for conditioners used for shaving is nonirritating ingredients. I have donated all my Herbal Essences to my sister, but even I still used them on my hair, I would not ever use them to shave my body. The dyes and strong fragrance ingredients would probably irritate my skin. As a test, lay some of the conditioner on your hand and allow to sit for a while. If your hand starts to be itchy, then chances are you will not find it the best conditioner for shaving. You could wind up with itchy legs and underarms. Also, not to get too personal, I would not suggest using conditioner for shaving more intimate parts of the body. No matter how nonirritating the conditioner might be to your legs, other parts of the body are a whole other story. I'm sure you get what I'm saying.

This category has no honorable mentions, but I am sure other conditioners out there work well for shaving the body as well. Just check those ingredients to ensure you don't irritate your skin, and don't blame the conditioner if you are using a rusty razor, which always leads to irritated skin post-shaving.